Little Gems at the Western End
Some of my favourite places in the Land's End peninsula

The

area between Lands End, and Penzance/St Ives is a peninsula crammed with treasures. Some are obvious to the vistor, but many are waiting to be found. This is my attempt to show you around this wonderful part of Cornwall.

Above is a very simple map of the area, drawn from memory over a gin and tonic. For this reason it is not to shape, and you can’t beat the OS maps for accuracy, but it serves the purpose of getting your bearings. To give a very rough idea of distances, Lands End to Penzance is about 8 miles, as the crow flies.

All directions make use of principle routes from Penzance, working in a kind of clockwise direction!

Warning to walkers - conditions vary wildly from day to day and you are advised to check the weather forecast. It is no fun being on the coastal path in a storm, and can be damn right dangerous. Also be warned that some parts do involve the occaisional bit of a scramble.

B3315

Newlyn

This is a no frills, large fishing port, and very much alive in the working sense. If you are looking for beaches and gift shops, forget it. The only thing you will find in the shops here is fish and marine clothing. However, the visitor will not be disappointed by the comings and goings of the colourful, weathered, and in some cases, substantial, fishing boats. These perform a constant procession against a backdrop of St Michaels Mount, looming out of the bay.

For those knowledgeable in matters relating to Art, the attraction of Newlyn will be it’s role played as host to the Newlyn School of painters. In addition to the obvious attraction Passmore Edwards gallery, one or two modern commercial galleries have started to appear, and there is always the pastime of spotting the location of some very famous paintings.

The road to Mousehole runs around the harbour and provides an excellent vantage point. Shortly after the incline of the old ‘slip’ take note of the plaque on the wall of the Smugglers Restaurant. This marks the home of the young William Lovett, before he left Cornwall to become famous as a political reformer in the 1830’s.

Further along, on the wall of one of the houses overlooking the the oldest of the jetties, is another interesting plaque, offering the tantalizing suggestion that this was the Mayflower’s last landfall before that epic journey to the new world. Looking down on the time worn, weed covered harbour wall below, the picture of this historic vessel taking on supplies, with it’s apprehensive cargo looking on, falls easily upon the mind.

Approx 1.5 miles to the West of Penzance. Simply walk along the sea front, or take the Mousehole bus. Not worth taking the car unless you have to, as parking is limited to two small car parks (one on the right, just after you have taken the road to Mousehole, and the other is signposted about half a mile further on, toward the end of the village).

Mousehole

About half a mile before you reach Mousehole, on the seaward side of the road, you will pass the former lifeboat station. No longer used in preference to a mooring in Newlyn, this was the last launching place of the ill-fated Penlee lifeboat in 1981. The small garden of remembrance serves to prompt thought of her entire crew who perished, going to the rescue of the floundering coaster, Union Star.

The village itself is everything you would expect from a Cornish fishing village, including quaint harbour, a smattering of gift shops, some nice little galleries, and plenty of tyrannosaurus seagulls on the scrounge.

The harbour is protected from the worst the sea can throw at it by a massive wooden gate between the two jetties embracing the village’s watery womb. Within this, a small sandy beach can be enjoyed at the far end as you enter the village from Penzance. There is very little coming and going of craft, and any commercial fishing is on a very small scale. For this reason it’s qualities are picturesque as opposed to the industrial panorama, as you pass through Newlyn.

On a wander around the narrow streets that skirt the harbour you will come across an old house with it’s overhanging upper floor supported by two columns. This is the home of Jenken Keigwin, who was one of three killed in July 1595, when four galleon loads of Spanish raided Mousehole, and burnt it to ground. This house is known to be one that survived this attack, and it is thought that little else has remained to this day.

The Spanish only hung around for a day or two, supposedly leaving in fear of the fleet of Francis Drake. Personally, if I had come from sunny Espania, to the mists of the Cornish coast, I would have been keen to be on my way, even if Francis Drake could only muster a rowing boat, and a few pebbles off Newlyn beach for ammo.

About three miles from Penzance, walkers, cyclists and car drivers have no choice but to take the combined cycle path and road well signposted from Newlyn. For the car driver the village is a vortex you get drawn into, and then find difficult to get out of, due to the narrowness of it’s streets. You are therefore recommended to use the car park, at the entrance to the village, or the laybys if you are lucky enough to find a space.

Lamorna Cove

A pretty cove where you can sit in the car and watch the sea while washing your pasty down with a cup of tea from the café. This is providing you are happy with cost of the car park. From here it is an easy walk up to the headland of Carn-du, where you can sit amongst sheltering rocks and ponder the fishing vessels, as they pass close by on their approach to Newlyn.

The slopes of the cove are covered in massive squared granite boulders, hacked from the hillside, to await cutting into more manageable parcels of sweat and toil. Unfortunately time caught up with the quarrying undertaken here, so what you see is unfinished business, from an industrial age, which has left many a curiosity crowning the Cornish cliffs.

I would not recommend trying to walk along the coast on it’s Westward side unless you are happy with scrabbling over the boulders, as you attempt to break out of this picture postcard, to the freedom of the footpath that leads all the 10 miles to Lands End. Even if you have negotiated these, the route is very close to the edge of high cliffs, and this one of the few sections of the coastal way that requires extreme concentration.

However, if you do this, then it is well worthwhile continuing on, for about 1 mile to Tater-Du Lighthouse. This is a fairly easy walk, the only significant climb being that up to the top of Carn Barges.

By car take the B3315 from Newlyn. The Lamorna turning is signposted after approx 2.5 miles.

St Loys

If you can imagine the coast of Penwith as a necklace, then this would be a pearl that certainly stands out. In place of golden sands, there is a ‘beach’ of smooth boulders. No good for bathing, but a cracking place to sit and ponder, with only the waves for company.

If approached from Lamorna on the footpath, there is a delightful walk through a grove of trees now growing in place of the daffodils that used to be cultivated in the shelter of Boscawen Point, and the southerly aspect.

From the road, instead, the path takes you through dense woodland, as it chases a stream down to the cove.

If you wish to adventure along the coastal footpath from here, it is best to head west, in the direction of Lands End. Follow the track up out of the cove through the woods (this is the way you came down from the road). Turn left at the sty, after the steep but short climb. After just under 1 mile you will reach the steep sided Porthguarnon Cove.

Penberth

Cobbled slipway with obligatory small boats, a few cottages, seasoned with a scattering of fishing miscellany, all washed down with a sparkling stream. Penberth is so perfect it could be a film set. The coves saviour is in the protective custody of the National Trust, so you can guarantee that if you come back in five years time you will not be disappointed by the effect of destructive elements, released by the tides of time, that now ravage our world.

However this is not a ‘stuffed’ exhibit, for it is a working environment on which you tread. The boats do go to sea, and they do bring back fish. The postman delivers real mail, and empty milk bottles are collected. The only thing that is no longer used is the wooden capstan for hauling boats away from the clutches of the sea, replaced by a mechanical one, housed in the hut at the side of the cove.

For walking further, the climb out of the cove on the Northern side (left as you look out to sea) is the easier route, and it is about 1½ mile to St Loys. This is a gentle walk apart from the long steep climb out of Porthguarnon Cove, which is not a good tonic for dodgy knees. The climb out of Penberth, on it’s Southern side is a hard one, after which it is easy walking to the Iron Age Treryn Dinas fort and Porthcurno, which is about 1 mile distant.

Treryn Dinas Fort and Logan Rock

This imposing headland aka big chunk of rock sticking out into the sea, is visible, when walking the coast from Penzance, once you have passed the lighthouse at Tater-du. It also provides the dramatic backdrop to the performances at the Minack Theatre, Porthcurno, which is the next port of call.

It’s importance in the Iron Age and beyond, lies in the fact that these were times less technical, more simplistic, times. Tribes were not equipped with F16 fighter planes armed with laser guided missiles, or battleships capable of changing the shape of the shoreline forever.

When slingshot and spears were the name of the game, the importance of geography, as a means of defence, was even more important than it is now. Once on this headline, the only way you could be got at, was from one direction only, making the focus point of your salvation much easier. Also, if the ‘bullies’ insisted on hanging around the gate, when you wanted to go home for tea, you could simply get in a few pre-arranged boats and slip along to the next headland, or beach, while they were asleep.

There are a number of earthen banks thrown up across the ‘neck’ of the headland, and they are best viewed from a distance, as you approach from either direction on the coastal footpath. The approach from the car park, is a more heads on affair, probably much as it would have appeared to an attacker.

A30

Lands End

For a site with such a spiritual expectation as befits the far extremity of Albion, it is easy say that the complex of hotel, exhibitions, and shops, that grace this spot is, to say the least, out of place. However, not everyone in the standard family unit is going to appreciate the significance of place, and as such their needs to be something to satisfy everyone.

The shops are interesting; as is the small miniature tin mine. It is also possible to explore a static lifeboat and fishing vessel. The bar has a cracking outlook toward the Longships lighthouse, and the cafeteria prices are fair. On the seaward side is the much photographed milepost which can be customised to show your hometown, and the short trails that lead to the ‘First and Last’ house, and a small farm exhibition, in the other direction.

Cliff walking around this area is, understandably, very limited, for reasons of safety. You are not encouraged to go exploring, and nor is it necessary, as the views are better from the cliff tops anyway. The reality is Lands End has been tailored to the need of the visitor who wants to drive in, have a wander around it’s attractions, maybe go for a bit of a walk, and sit and look at the view, and for a family with young children, or the elderly, it is recommended.

Car parking is expensive, and one way round this is to use the RNLI car park in Sennen Cove and walk along the mile along the cliffs tops. As a public right of way extends through Lands End, entry to the complex is free. If you wish to visit the exhibitions, tickets can then be purchased.

By car, follow the A30 from Penance. If you decide to walk from Sennen Cove, take the signposted turning, in the village of Sennen. Drive as far along the sea front as you can, which will lead you to the RNLI car park. From here a footpath climbs the hill and follows the cliff top to Lands End.

Sennen Cove and Gwenver

You cannot visit Lands End, and miss out Sennen Cove from your itinerary – it is a crime oft committed out of ignorance, as to what that plain road sign off the A30 actually points to. Indeed, as mention earlier, why not walk to Lands End from Sennen, as it is only about one mile.

As you drive down the hill into the cove the view is breathtaking. The distant hill jutting out into the sea with the chimney on top immediately catches the eye. This is Cape Cornwall, which is covered later. As you venture a littler further, the beach comes into view, fending off some of the best surfing waves in Cornwall.

In high season, on a nice day, forget about going any further, and park in the car park at the top of the hill. It is healthy climb coming back, but I guarantee that the lower car parks will be heaving. However, if you do go down the hill, the most popular car park is the one in front of the beach. There is a second car park at the furthest end of the ‘promenade’, just past the lifeboat house. This is best for walking to Lands End.

A stroll along the seafront, toward the lifeboat station, which can itself be visited, will yield a couple of cafes, a fish and chip shop, and small slipway with a scattering of little boats. Here you will also find a gallery and gift shop in the round house that formerly contained a winch for hauling the boats ashore, and a pretty thatched cottage. A walk up the hill to the former coastguard lookout is not as challenging as it looks, and you are rewarded with a fine view over the village and bay, or Lands End.

To most people the obvious attraction is the long sandy beach, with its brilliant views, and good surf. This is not a bather friendly beach, beyond the small area designated by the lifeguards, and this portion of the beach inevitably can get crowded. However if bathing is not a priority, then solitude is guaranteed the further on up the beach you walk. In fact you can continue to another beach, Gwenver, about half a mile from here, if you walk along the low cliff top path. This is another popular surfing beach, and again the sand and views are superb. If you have children, the downside is there are no toilets, and the climb back to your car, should you choose to park here instead, is the last thing you want if you are suffering from heat exhaustion!

Nanjulian

Takes about fifteen minutes at a stroll, from the small car parking area, and is an easy level walk.

The first part of the walk takes you past an old watermill, tastefully converted in a residence, and the second part is down a shallow valley, creased by a stream. The small mounds, and general stony chaos, around these parts are as a result of mining for tin by digging into the sides if the stream.

Where the stream meets the sea, there is no better place contemplation and relaxation. No toilets, ice creams, shops, houses, just the sound of breaking waves, and the occasional passing coastal walker.

By car follow the A30 from Penzance, and at Crows-an-wra, take the road signposted to Lands End Airport. Turn right at the junction, and just past the airport take the turning on the left. Follow this road for about one mile, to the point where it almost ends. There is a small grassy lay by on the right for parking. Continue on foot along the lane from this point, turning left at the old watermill.

On foot from Gwenver, simply follow the coastal footpath, taking the path on the left, above the cove, which takes you down to sea level.

A3071

Cot Valley

A similar prospect to Najulian, but on a grander scale. The valley is longer and deeper. The cove more pronounced, and the remnants of mining more pronounced. Also you can drive right into the thick of things, and appreciate a fair part of it without leaving your car. In fact from this point on, there are a number of sites for those who prefer to remain within touching distance of their gear stick.

Mining in these parts has left more than signs of tin streaming. There are actually hole in the ground, some of them pretty deep, and not all of them readily visible, so stick to the paths.

If you decide to leave your car, and not just sit in it watching the waves, first take a look at the boulders on the foreshore. These are perfectly rounded, and a legacy from the ice age, which has also left it’s mark on the cliff, in the form of a line of boulders about twenty metres up. This is a ‘raised beach’ laid down when the sea was much higher than at present.

After this, cross the stream and take the short climb up the rocky slope. If you then walk the length of the rocky outcrop and look back on the cliff you will see the cave like entrances of a number of addits, cut into rock following the veins of ore. One of these is right next to the coastal footpath, but you are advised not to enter. Just past the outcrop on which you stand is a track down to the shore, if you feel adventurous.

Continuing on the coastal footpath in the direction of Lands End, is a pleasant walk with nice views, and a couple of shafts are of interest. You could walk to Nanjulian from here, and this would take about an hour, if strolled. There are a couple of fairly steep climbs, but your reward is some cracking views towards Lands End, in one direction, and Cape Cornwall in the other.

By car take the A3071 from Penzance and drive to St Just. In St Just look out for the sign to Cape Cornwall, on the left, near the Co-Op. Just before Cape Cornwall College you will see a small signpost, on the left, for the Cot Valley. This lane is very narrow so drive with care. Follow it for it’s 1-mile length, and it will take you right up to the shore.

Walking from Nanjulian, simply follow the coastal footpath. Walking from Cape Cornwall, take the lane up past the golf course, and then the coastal footpath, on the right, where there is a picnic spot at the top of the hill. This will eventually lead down into the valley. Turn right onto the road and follow it to the sea. This will take about ½ hour.

Carn Gloose

One of those places where you can drive, park up, and sit in your car and admire the view on a wet and windy day, with a pasty in one hand, and a flask in the other. And when it’s not wet and windy, then you can get out and have a picnic, take the short walk to Cape Cornwall, or visit the historically significant Ballowall Barrow.

Impressive views are available of Cape Cornwall to the north, and the Cot Valley, with distant Sennen Cove, and Lands End to the south. The rocks out to sea are the Brisons, which are responsible for the demise of many, a ship in a storm, whilst in stark contrast, immediately to your rear are the passive rolling greens of Cape Cornwall Golf Club.

Ballowall Barrow is the insignificant looking pile of small rocks on your left, opposite

the old chimneystack. However, do not be fooled by a passing glimpse. This is a chambered cairn, and the remains of a large domed one at that. Looking down into it is like looking into the maze of prehistory, a product of what is to us a secret age of mystery and superstition.

By car, take the A3071 from Penzance. In St Just, turn left into the Cape Cornwall road, and drive past Cape Cornwall College. About ¼ mile further on, on the outskirts of the town, take the turning on the left. Follow this narrow twisting lane to its end, where you will be able to park.

On foot from Cot Valley, walk up the lane away from the sea. As you approach the top of the valley, there is a concrete coastal footpath sign. Take the track here up the side of the valley back toward the sea. The walk will take about ½ hour in total.

You can also walk to Carn Gloose from the car park at Cape Cornwall, by taking the stoney lane up the hillside, which starts right next to the car park entrance.

Cape Cornwall

Stunning outcrop into the sea, and again a sit in job, if you do not want to get your shoes dirty. If you do leave your bubble however, there is a small fishing cove below the car park, and bracing walks to the top, and around, the hill.

The stack on the summit is the only immediately recognisable remain of the once prolific tin mining that went on here. You can still make out the route of the flue that climbed the hill, from a long demolished engine house below. Further evidence is apparent if you take the lane to Carn Gloose, in the form of concrete slab, on the right as you pass the cottages on the climb, which caps a formidable shaft.

Do not restrict yourself to simply climbing up to the stack. There are many tracks around the Cape that make good strolling, with a little cove hidden away on the northern side, and a small chapel to visit. Good views towards Lands End, and on the other side, over to the Kenidjack Valley, and it’s prehistorically defended headland.

The more obvious cove is on the Southern side, and is accessed from the car park, by a series of steps. This is Priests Cove, and is a nice sheltered spot to sit and admire the view. With both the coves be very careful on the slipways and these are very slippery, due to algae. I strongly recommend keeping off them, as at their lower reaches the experience is one of being on a sloping sheet of black ice.

By car follow the directions for Carn Gloose, but carry straight on, when you have passed the school. It is quite a long lane, but the view at the end is worth it.

On foot from Carn Gloose, take the rough lane down the hill toward the Cape, and follow this down to the car park.

Kenidjack Valley and Castle

About ½ mile of walking to do here, but this has the bonus of ensuring that you will be far from the madding crowd. What you will experience is a stroll down to the sea, along the floor a valley, with briskly flowing water for company. Evidence of tin streaming is all around, as are the remains of engine houses and miscellaneous mining architecture, in varying states of decay, including a partially restored pond. Right at the end of the valley is the housing for what was once a huge water wheel, and a stunning view of Cape Cornwall.

On your way to the sea you will have walked past a path on the right that works it’s way up the side of the valley in the same direction. This is the coastal path continuing on its way, and if you take this, you will find yourself above a headland. The odd bits of building up here are the remains of old Napoleonic firing ranges. However, history of a must more distant time is engrained into the headland that you can walk onto. This was once a defensive fort in excess of 2000 years old and a centre for the supply of flint.

By car, take the A3071 to St Just from Penzance, drive through St Just, and down the small hill leading to the hamlet of Tregeseal. At the foot of the hill is a turning on the left. Take this and drive until the road becomes a rough track. You should look to park here, and walk the rest of the way down the track, which is about ½ mile.

On foot from Cape Cornwall, take the road away from the Car Park, and turn left onto the footpath, a short distance up the hill. Follow this path around the top of the valley, and the boundary of the golf club. Shortly after turning inland, there is a path leading off to your left, which will take you down, into the valley, and across its bottom. Turn left at the junction and follow the path to the sea.

Botallack

This is a small hamlet, about ½ mile inland, consisting of small miners cottages and a public house. However, attractive as it is, it is the coastal mining remains, and cliffs that are the prime reason for most visitors.

The most well known of these are the Crowns Engine Houses, perched precariously on a rocky platform, way below their cliff top vantage point. Your most immediate thought, on arrival, is probably ‘how did they do that’. Then as your body and eye start to wander, a track leading down the side of the cliff becomes apparent, and you can walk down this track to gain a point blank inspection.

The higher of the two engine houses was built to provide the power for the movement of men and materials up and down the shaft of the mine, which stretch out under the sea as well as inland. This shaft was sloping, rather than a vertical drop, so instead of buckets, skips, and cages, an arrangement akin to a funicular railway was used. This has all gone now, but in it’s time this was considered to be one of the wonders of the industrial revolution. What’s more, you are standing in footsteps of Royalty, as Queen Victoria herself paid a visit to this exact spot in 1846, and the Prince and Princess of Wales actually took a trip down the mine in 1865.

As you know, if you dig a hole on a beach, and you dig it deep enough, it will fill with water. The mine engineers faced the same problem, and the second house was specifically for the purpose of pumping water out, as were most of the engine houses that remain today. Finally before working your way back up the track, mention needs to be mentioned of this mines sad contribution to the role of accidents that go with the hostile territory of going underground. In this case it occurred on in April 1863, when the cable hauling eight men, and one boy, to the surface, broke.

At the top of the track is a level area with the remains of concrete and granite buildings and stacks. This is the area where the surface work took place, the most important tasks being the separation of the metal from the ore, and the treatment of arsenic, which carried on here into the early 1900’s. From this point it is an easy walk to the 2 engine houses to the South, about ¼ mile distant.

The best preserved of these is the fist one you come to, and if you explore the area behind, you will find a memorial to the nineteen men and one lad, drowned as a result of an accident which led to the flooding of a section of the mine. Their remains lay where they fell, as recovery was impossible, and there is a further plaque by the actual shaft down which they made their last descent, which can be found by taking, with care, a vague track down the side of the cliff. This can be found to the seaward side of the other engine recognisable engine house.

Returning to the area immediately above the Crowns engine houses, you will have already noticed the substantial headgear of a more modern mining concern. This was an enterprise to extend a mine that was working up until very recently, a bit further along the coast, known as Geevor. This is covered later, but of interest here is a small adjacent ‘quarry’. It is only apparent if you look over the ‘wall’ next to the rough vehicle track that runs along the cliff top. This open cast digging here has created a cross-section of the more traditional ‘tunnelling’ type of mining, with holes and chambers visible.

By Car, follow the directions for Botallack, as above, but stay on the main road until you see the signpost in the village of Trewellard. Drive down this road to the car park on the cliff top.

There is more direct route from Penzance, if you are visiting this area first. Take the A3071 from Penzance, turning right, onto the B3318, about one mile after passing through Newmill. In Pendeen turn left at the T-junction, and after about half a mile you should look for the signpost for the right hand turning down to the cliff top car park.

On foot it is an easy walk of about a mile along a rough vehicular track. More interesting route are available closer to the cliff top but some of these need to be taken with care.

Pendeen Watch and Portheras Cove

Another spot, where you can sit in your car, and admire the view. However, if the weather is up to it, this is a good spot for a picnic, without having to roam for miles.

The best spots to sit and admire the view are the benches that line the cliff top, or on the grassy slope, sheltered by the wall of the lighthouse.

The lighthouse itself is an attraction, and is open to the public, although you are advised to check the times in advance. Opened in 1900 to reinforce the warnings along this treacherous section of coast, it is crowned with two enormous fog horns.

On a clear evening this is my favourite spot for watching the sunset, as you are facing due West, as you look out to sea.

From here you can walk to Levant and Geevor, by picking up the coastal footpath, back down the lane on the right, shortly after the row of houses. More popular, however, is the walk of about 1 mile in the other direction, to Portheras Cove. Here there is an unspoilt, sheltered beach, where the only noise is the waves, and tumbling water crashing over the final rocky hurdles on it’s journey to the sea. Bathing is not recommended due to the potential hazard of wreckage remaining from the coaster, Alacrity, which met a premature fate here in 1963.

By car take the A3071 St Just road from Penzance. About one mile, after passing through the village of Newbridge, take the B3318 to Pendeen. On reaching the junction with the B3306, in Pendeen, the lane to Pendeen Watch is directly in front of you.

Walking from Levant needs little explanation, other than to turn left, after about 1 mile, when you reach the road.

The Madron Road

Bosigran Castle

This is a rocky headland, and once the site of an Iron Age fort, the walls of which are still visible, particularily if viewed from the North. The cliffs here are particularily sheer, and hence this is a popular spot with climbers, also used for training commandoes during the Second World War.

To get to the headline you need to walk about a mile through an area with the remnants of mining, and then across fields. This is a pleasant and easy walk, ideal for a stroll with a nice view at the end. Sometimes a few cows or goats are standing around, but these seem used to the large number of visitors they get, so don’t be put off by their presence. However, it is essential that you have your dog lead at the ready, should it be required.

The car park is to the front of two old engines houses, belonging to Carn Galver Mine. This takes it’s name from the very prominent, and rocky, hill on the other side of the road. This is about 800ft above sea level, and commands impressive views from the top. If you want to experience these then there is a rough track of about ½ mile in length, with a moderate climb.

By Car continue along the B3306 from Pendeen, as above, in the St Ives direction. You cannot fail to miss the two engine houses, next to the car park, after just over 2 miles.

Alternatively, if travelling directly from Penzance follow the roadsigns for Heamoor, which is a village on the outskirts of the town. Follow this road up the hill, through Madron, and then across country for about 4 miles. This will eventually bring you to the B3306, onto which you should turn right. The car park is about a mile further on, next to the two old engine houses.

Walking from Pendeen Watch or Portherras Cove you cannot avoid the steepclimb up the hill on the cove’s Northern side. However once this has been accomplished, there is a mile of pleasant clifftop walking, until you reach the remains of Morvah Mine. From here the footpath is difficult, not so much because of the climbs, but more the it’s rocky nature. However, the views are spectacular, and worth the effort. In total, from Pendeen Watch, you are looking at a walk of just under 3 miles.

Porthmeor Cove

An easy walk of about ½ mile downhill to the sea, and a not so easy walk back up the valley. The cove is totally unspoilt, with not a building in site. The shore here is strewn with large boulders, and climb down to it is not recommended. Etched into the cliffs are some very prominent veins of lighter granite, exposed as a result of millions of years of erosion, and not normally seen as clearly as here.

A stream runs down the valley well below the footpath, and whilst you can clearly hear it, you will not set an eye on it, until the shoreline is reached, as it flows in a deep cutting, screened by undergrowth. This maybe due to the ancient practice of tin streaming, where the beds, and banks, of streams were turned over in search of ore.

Another attraction, on the earlier part of the walk, are the well preserved ‘dressing floors’ and other remains, from mining days. The purpose of this site was to treat material from the local mines, as opposed to actually extracting it from the ground.

This is not a good spot if you like an easy stroll along the coastal footpath, as the climb out of the valley is steep on both sides. However if you are not put of then take then head East out of the cove, and you will be rewarded with views across to Gurnards Head. I would not recommend the other direction due to the grounds capacity to ouse water in all but the driest of spell, making it particularily boggy.

By Car continue towards St Ives on the B3309, from the car park at Bosigran (see previous section), and shortly after passing the entrance to Bosigran Farm, park if you can, just before the bend in the road, where you should also find the footpath on the seaward side of the road.

Walking from Bosigran Castle takes about ½ hour, but the path can be very boggy in the latter stages.

Gurnards Head

As you walk across the fields you are met by what I consider to be one of the most stunning views at this end of the world. With each step more of this ancient headland offers itself to the eye, drawing you ever closer.

This is a good place for a ‘stroll with a goal’, which encompasses parking your car near a pub, and then walking for about ¾ mile across open pastures, to the coast. From here you can walk out onto the headland, or simply admire the view.

The headland itself has been utilised as a defensive ‘castle’ in much earlier times and the remains of the ramparts are still visible.

If you fancy venturing further along the coast, it is easy going to the South, as long as you do not venture down into Porthmeor Cove. To the North the path can be a bit messy, but Treen Cove has an old engine house, and a pretty stream, which add interest.

Just over 1 mile from the previous site, by car, continuing in the direction of St Ives. Park in the vicinity of the Gurnards Head hotel, turn left down the lane just past the hotel and walk through the small farming village of Treen. At the end of the village take the footpath found to the right of the private garage and follow the footpath signs across the fields.

On foot from Porthmeor Cove it is about two miles on the coastal footpath. The walking is easy going apart from the steep climb out of the cove.

SOME INLAND SITES

The Madron Road

Madron Holy Well

After a short walk through woodland you will find the remains of a small 12^th century chapel, with it’s stone side benches still intact, despite the fact that it has lost it’s roof. A small water course has bee channelled through the building to supply a ‘tank’ in one corner, for purposes unknown, although baptism is a popular theory.

The stone slab lined well itself is unspectacular, and found in the wetter area passed a little way back. However, it’s historical importance should not be forgotten. As well as being an important source of water for Madron, all wells in this part of the world held a deep spiritual significance, and to an extent, this persists to date, as witnessed by the pieces of cloth and other personal momentos that adorn the trees in the immediate area. Each piece of cloth, written note, or tin foil, has been left by someone quite recently, who still has faith in the idea that curative powers are associated with the well, and that by leaving a small offering, this will enhance their recovery from illness.

By car, follow the road signs out of Penzance, for Heamoor. Stay on the road through the village and carry on up the hill to Madron. Pass through Madron and look for the signpost ‘Celtic Well’, pointing to the lane on your left. There is a small car park on the right, after about 200 yards.

It is possible to walk here from Madron. There is a footpath to the side of the fields on the right as you leave the village, and this will bring you out very close to the car park.

Ding Dong Mine

A solitary mine engine house, dominates the moorland above Madron, and is well worth a visit, for a number of reasons. Firstly the structure itself is in good order, and has a very deep shaft in front of it. This is protected by a grate, but you can still look down into it.

Secondly there is an excellent view across Mounts Bay, to the south, and a moorland panorama to the North, reminiscent of Dartmoor, with Carn Galver beckoning you to walk over to it's rocky summit. This is easily achieved, if the conditions are not too wet, after about an hours strolling.

Thirdly, you could wander down the track to the west, which will take you to another fine angine house at Boskednan.

Finally there are sites of prehistoric interest all within walking distance, if you find the right tracks to the North. Most notably, Men-an-tol, and the Nine Maidens. Easier access to these sites is explained later on, but if you have a map, then you will be able to get to them from here.

By car, follow the road signs out of Penzance, for Heamoor. Stay on the road through the village and carry on up the hill to Madron. Pass through Madron, and after about one mile, where the sunmmit of the climb appears to have been reached, look for the turning signposted 'Ding Dong', on the right. Follow this lane to the point where it is no longer metalled, and park.

Take care as the grass verge can be very soft, but it is necessary to leave room for traffic to the farm to pass. From here continue on foot along the track for about a quarter of a mile.

Lanyon Quoit

Stark remains of an ancient burial chamber, stripped of the earth that would once have covered it, to leave a massive stone table formation.

By car, follow the road signs out of Penzance, for Heamoor. Stay on the road through the village and carry on up the hill to Madron. Pass through Madron, up the hill, go past the Ding Dong turning, and about a mile further on the quiot is in an enclosure on the right.

Men-an-tol, Nine Maidens, Men Scryfa, and Carn Galver

Four interesting sites, all accessible from one car park.

Men-an-tol is probably the most well known, being a prehistoric site with a holed standing stone. Little is known about the true meaning of this stone alignement other than that it is very old. This mystery, and it's location in the midst of rolling moorland make this well worth a visit.

Men Scryfa is a sentinel of a standing stone, in the middle of a field. It has an insription, hence it's name. This appears to commemorate a local leader, possibly slain in a battle around these parts. It is possible that the incription was added in the fifth or sixth century AD, and the stone itself was already in situ from the bronze age.

Nine Maidens is of a similar vintage. Originally a stone circle, sadly all that is left are a few upright stones. Worth a visit if visitting the other sites around here.

Finally Carn Galver is a rocky outcrop, commanding fine views to the Atlantic coast, and well worth the easy scramble up the boulders at it's peak.

By car, follow the road signs out of Penzance, for Heamoor. Stay on the road through the village and carry on up the hill to Madron. Pass through Madron and continue for about two miles, until you see the public footpath sign pointing right, next to the small art gallery that was formerly a chapel. After parking, walk down the gated lane.

After about ½ mile you will see a signpost for Men-an-tol, on the right. Men Scyfa is a little further up the lane in a field on the left.

Nine Maidens is just above the brow of the hill, if you carry on up the track at the end of the lane.

The summit of Carn Galver can be reached by again, walking to the end of the lane, and taking the walled track, on the left. This will lead you up the hill. At the top. Take one of the tracks through the heather, and head for the southern end of the rocky outcrop, for the easiest way up. Be careful as the ground underfoot is stony, and part hideen by overgrowth.

Watch Croft

This is the highest point in Penwith, at 252 metres above sea level. As you would expect, the views are spectacular, and the climb is simply a gentle stroll along a lane, from the car, of about ½ a mile.

At the top is a dwelling, which was once a hunting lodge, with the tumbled remains of an engine house close by. Just opposite this, if you search hard enough, you will find the feint track through the heather that leads to a stone cairn, and small standing stone at the summit. From here you can see virtually the entire coastline of the peninsula, which really gives you the feel that you are on an island.

If, instead, you carry on along the track, to where it starts to descend, you will find numerous mounds, which are the spoil heaps of the mining that went on here.

By car, follow the road signs out of Penzance, for Heamoor. Stay on the road through the village and carry on up the hill to Madron. Pass through Madron and continue for about 2 ¼ miles. The lane down which you walk is on the right, marked 'Garden Mine Cottage'just at the top of the hill, after the car park for Men-an-tol. This is a public right of way.

B3315

Merry Maidens

An almost perfect stone circle, the condition of which belies it's estimated age of over 4000 years. Just under 25 metres in diameter, with 19 stones of about 3 foot high. Unlike many circles, this is not rising from the gorse, being in a grassy field and is easily accessible. For the enthusiast, there are other stone relics in this area, the most prominent being two large standing stones in the fields on the other side of the road, just before you reach The Merry Maidens, known as The Pipers.

By car from Penzance drive along the promenade to Newlyn, picking up the B3315, at the point where the road takes a sharp right into the port. Pass the turning to Lamorna Cove, about 3 miles distant, and shortly after look out for Boliegh farm on the right. The actual site is in a field on the left, a couple of bends further on.

A30

Drift Reservoir

This is a large reservoir, and dam, overlooked by a car park and picnic area. Just somewhere nice and quiet to sit and stare, or maybe have a snooze!

Take the A30 Lands End road out of Penzance, and after about two miles, you will reach the village of Drift. Take the right hand turning for Sancreed. You cannot miss the site, a few hundred yards down this lane, on the right.

Sancreed, and it's Holy Well

Sancreed is a little village, with a rural charm enhanced by the constant chorus of the crows that nest on high, in the towering trees next to the churchyard. The church itself is picture postcard, and there is a very interesting stone cross next to it's entrance.

Most visits to the village are to take in the short walk to Sancreed Holy Well, and 'The Beacon', which are both just outside the village.

The Well is situated in a compact area of low woodland and bushes, and is reached by descending a few steps down into a stone lined hole. The trees closest to the well are always decorated by votive offerings, normally ribbons, hairbands etc. The 'freshness' of many of these items remind you that there is a keeness to maintain Celtic, and earlier, beliefs in the sacredness of wells.

The Beacon is a hill above the village, offering superb views across to the coast. The climb is short, gentle, and very rewarding in return.

Take the A30 Lands End road out of Penzance, and after about two miles, you will reach the village of Drift. Take the right hand turning for Sancreed. When you reach Sancreed, I would suggest driving past the church, avoiding the temptation to park opposite it.

Instead, take the left hand turning, just after passing the church, and parking in the layby on the right, at the top of the hill. From here thereis a clear and short track to the top of the beacon. On the opposite side of the road is a small garden style gate. This is the start of the short walk to the Holy Well. From the Holy Well, you can cary on along this path through the cops, to the village, if you want to visit the church.

Chapel Euny